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Eleven Bang Bang
Приєднався 26 лют 2012
How to Fix airbag 1986-1996 F150, 250, 350, Bronco
This is a tutorial showing how to diagnose and fix several common airbag codes and the code 5-1 air bag thermal fuse. I assume no liability to modifications you make to your car. I hope this helps you fix your flashing lights.
Переглядів: 11 160
Відео
Jonesboro Tornado *New* March 28th, 2020
Переглядів 2,6 тис.4 роки тому
Tornado hitting Jonesboro, AR on 28 March 2020. In this video is grainy a bit and I am sorry but please enjoy the massive look.
Franklin BFS3 trigger problems + modifications Part 2 (Fix your Semi Only Trigger)
Переглядів 13 тис.5 років тому
Here we see the binary working correctly after modification.
Franklin BFS3 trigger problems + modifications Part 1 (Fix your Semi Only Trigger)
Переглядів 30 тис.5 років тому
A video on how the franklin binary trigger can fit into an 80% or non-milspec lower with some simple modifications
Chrome AR 15 binary trigger Chandler Hardwoods
Переглядів 8465 років тому
This weapon is still being made but hope it helps
2016 Mustang GT PP Magnaflow Race Series Axle-Back with X-pipe
Переглядів 2,9 тис.6 років тому
This is a 2016 Mustang GT with Performance Package. A Magnaflow Race Series Axle Back w/ 3" mandrel bent tubing and 4.5" chrome tips has been added along with an SVE X-pipe.
How did you get the chrome color of the build ? And mag .? You mention oven cleaner ? What is that for .? All I thought you had to do it sand it and add polished cream and keep repeating???
Are you using oven cleaner to remove the color ??? Or why mention oven cleaner ???
So you just sand the mag and polished it after right ? Simple way of saying it ???
A white with a chirping smoke detector? Is this filmed in an alternate universe?
Smoke detectors are a government conspiracy to get you to voluntarily maintain listening devices in your home in coordination with Japanese battery company Energizer. Let them beep!
Super! Thank you so much!!
Any updates man? I'm fixing to do the same damn thing myself. 94 f150 4.9L automatic
Worked like a charm. Lights been off for years
@@Divorceization nice man, thanks a ton for the video, subscribed 🇺🇲👍
MOTHER'S POLISH!! IS THE SH!T🎉🎉
I’ll buy one
hey so if i buy a raw brand new aluminum upper .. how much polishing would i have to do to make it look like that?
Probably not much just some light wet sanding then polish away. Maybe 1 night of Netflix and polish
🫡🫡
beautiful finish upper and lower but how to remove all anodizing on lower without wiping branding and serial number on the lower receiver
I have couple questions if it’s ciol
Whats up?
When u say sanding u mean all wet sanding no dry sanding?
U could do either but finish with wet sanding
Did you ever put a new battery in your smoke detector?
Haha nope, the place burned down so I had to move
Great thx for your efforts
Hey brotha love these 2 videos just wondering should I just try out the Anderson speed hammer before filing ??
This video is a bit old now, I am not sure you can find the anderson speed hammer but if you can it's always worth a shot!
After polishing the 2 pieces so they slide smoothly, I still had a drag in there. I found that the pin with the c clips on it was corroded, so I put it in my drill and polished it also. Problem solved. I have a complete lower ordered so I will check all this out and polish as necessary.
Nice job, having the same problems and this was so helpful.
After mirror finishing it. Can I still gold plate it?
Absolutely but to gold plate you usually have to plate copper followed by nickel I believe but the mirror finish would look very sharp. Just buy an electroplating kit and follow their instructions
@@Divorceizationoh okay thanks. Will sanding by hand also work on lower and upper receiver that comes in black(anodized)
@@Divorceizationor will you recommend something else to remove them
@@Jose-el7rf get the black off using the easy off oven cleaner then sand to perfection and you could then plate it copper>nickel>gold. You don't have to get all of the black off using the oven cleaner but it will make it easy. That anodized layer is fairly hard so it will save you from some heavier sanding.
Great video. I went to do the repair but the Round black thermal varistor was blown apart. Anyone have any replacement equivalent parts info?
Would it work to remove some nickel platting I have on my rifle?
Can I leave the module off, and just eliminate my airbags?
Ha, I’m also an 11B that’s about to put these on my Mustang. I’ve got long tube headers too. It’s a Roush Stage 3 with other stuff done. I’m a little worried it’s gonna be too loud. I go to the gym at 4:30AM
4:55 gets to the point
thank you
How did you do the handguards?
Took mine too both my gunsmiths and said the trigger was fucked in a respectful manner lol didn't know they didn't this bs before I bought it and I got it for my ak as well still shipping though hopefully it doesn't do same shit didn't franklin needs too fix this bs it's 2023
Black chrome would be awesome
If I paid the $450 for one of these, I'd be on the phone with Franklin before I did all this work.
They typically work pretty well in manufacture lowers due to the precise dimensions. But 80% lowers can be off by just a hair and cause these issues. But mainly one of the problems is for sure that IDS spring. They'd probably do nothing but send another one which would do the same. My only hope is someone that works there sees this and implements changes on their end.
@@Divorceization That makes sense. I understand. And, I can see them telling you they can’t help if it’s an 80% lower. Thanks for putting out this detailed information.
Good video, I will check out my wiring for damage and corrosion. Did you have a buzzer going off before you fixed it? I do have a buzzer going off. Some said a burned out airbag or seatbelt light could cause this. My bulbs are good.
when you watch a 11 minute long video that could of been made 2 minutes long
Truth
I just wanna say thank you so much both your videos where extremely helpful and I got my binary trigger working correctly now had the exact same issue everytime i had the selector in binary mode would automatically reset to semiautomatic after the first fire… now binary mode works correctly. I put this trigger on a M&P 15-22 works like a charm!!!
Another happy customer =]
The method you used for the mags is the same for the receivers and handguards?
Yup but you just soak it in oven cleaner even longer and keep retreating. If it's been cerakoted you will have to sand it off or blast it. Once you've got it mostly stripped just start polishing. Others have mentioned doing a hot lye bath outside. But that wasn't realistic for me in an apartment
After all this time you would figure that Franklin would have this remedied. Bought one 11/2022 for $300 + ship/tax. Thanks to you and the other suggestions in the forum I got it running correctly in dryfire in all three positions. Removing the excess metal off the back up disconnector to match IDS and stretched the IDS spring just a touch and Wa Lah.
Glad we could help, it's a great trigger otherwise. Just needed some tweaks. Wish Franklin binary would watch the video lol
Why would they sale this trigger and they know it doesn’t work
Franklin trigger sucks
@Hewhoremains420 i actually have one and it suck
Aluminum boat cleaner will take off anodizing very quickly
Bro thank you so much I spent $400 on my franklin binary trigger I was fucking pissed I thought I was out so much money
Enjoy my friend
Great video man. well explained.
I'm trying to prove the parker finish on my ar mag with oven cleaner but it's not coming off what am I doing wrong?
The dark color stuff is actually a moly lubricant it is most effectively remove with about 400-600 sand paper. Then once its all off. Give it one oven cleaner and sand it with 800, 1200, 2000 and polish it with some mothers polish and a rag
hopefully youve changed your smoke alarm by now... idk how you tolerate that
I have become one with the beeping. It is the song of silence. A reminder of time. Beep......... beep........ beep...... knowing the beep will come again is the only truth I can rely on. It is always there for me, surrounding us with its call. Many have come and gone since this video... but the beep remains.
@@Divorceization lmaooo
My 92 Mustang has a code 52. From what I read it is a similar issue. I can't find much info on how to repair it. Anyone know what type of fuse to buy?
The kit comes with different hammer spring rates. Would a stronger hammer spring prevent it from going forward to far to reset the IDS?
No, the geometry will not change by using a stronger or weaker spring. The BCG pushes the hammer back and it makes contact with the trigger assembly in the problem areas in the video. You will either need to try a different hammer, grind your hammer, or grind away the problem area as mentioned
@@Divorceization Yes, but the BCG moves the hammer to a certain extent and the rest of the movement is by momentum. Perhaps with a stronger hammer spring, it could prevent the hammer from continuing to go too far and reset the IDS. For example, If you were to pull the charging hammer manually, the hammer probably wouldn’t reset the IDS.
@@fatfree69 it takes 10 minutes to try. But I never use anything but the strongest spring for the hammer as I want to ensure to avoid light primer strikes and it happened regardless. At this point, you are theorizing about it. Go try, and you will see what your result is. But my experience and best guess, says you will need to modify the other parts. I'm not trying to be rude but if you think your way is better go try it and report back your findings. Someone, years from now will appreciate the data.
@@Divorceization Oh, no, not saying my theory is correct. Wasn’t sure if it was already tried on your end. I haven’t test fire yet as my dry fire Franklin manual test has already failed at this very problem. It makes me wonder how others have it working out of the box, while you and I need to shave the IDS. Bad batch?
@@fatfree69 some have said Franklin's hammers themselves are out of spec. Another option would be a completely different hammer than the mil spec style. Look up something called a lightweight speed hammer. It doesn't have the tail which is what hits the ids. Anderson manufacturing has an interesting one as well.
Great video man. Is this a 80% lower as wel? Also are you from Louisiana too??
For my fix i found a spring in my spare parts kit that had a similar diameter and coil rate, I believe it was a spare retaining pin spring and I cut it a little longer than the factory spring. Works like a charm and doesn't void the warranty
I have never seen a chromed AR before..mannnnn my face hurts from laughing so hard...that is FUCKING AWSOME! Absolutely no fucks given...
It's actually polished raw aluminum. I have an F1 raw AR. Mine hasn't been mirror polished tho and I prefer the Mad-Max look it has that way instead of the super shine. Another little secret I stumbled across tho, is to go search the web for raw unfinished AR parts and you'll see they sell for way cheaper too. I guess they're sold this way to dealers who build and then paint them at a discount. But myself I kinda like the raw look. Handguards and upper recievers for like 50$ that cost tons more if painted or anodized. Some folks paint thier rifles camo etc anyways. Worth a check tho
@@hughgrection3052 nice
With the spring, you can stretch it out a little. That’s what a lot of CZ Scorpion owners do with the binary trigger. The hammer tail, it’s better to cut it with a bandsaw than to grind it. This is actually a good thing to do if one is using a light spring kit and I strongly recommend it. Lightens the hammer, allowing for faster hammer drop and prevents light primer strikes. I have done it a few times.
Excellent info thank you!
I have a BFS111 in my MPX and at times I seem to outrun the trigger. Does bobbing the hammer this way help that any?
@@hughgrection3052 if you mean you are pulling and releasing faster than the cycle of the weapon you either need to practice more to get your tempo down better and accept the slower cyclic rate of the weapon. Otherwise, if you are looking to increase the cyclic rate of fire you will need to swap to a lightweight bolt carrier group and lightened buffer/spring assembly. You can also add an adjustable gas block to increase the gas on the action (a last resort as this increases dirt accumulation). Lightweight carrier and buffer groups also have drawbacks in their increase to the felt recoil of the weapon. If it were me I would try a lighter buffer and spring combo kit and play around with mixing and matching the buffers and springs until you are happy. If you still need more speed, you'll need to add more gas or shave weight off of the bolt assembly.
@@Divorceization all true. But it's a MPX tho and not exactly an AR. I'll have to order the aftermarket spring kits maybe for the carriage assembly later maybe. It's just a range toy atm tho so it don't bug me that much tbh. If it was a quick fix tho I'd pursue it more I guess but it's fine thx. I do however own a F1 that's raw like yours but I never mirror polished it yet. I may do so one day. But I put an FRT in it tho and it ran too fast also. I had to put in a heavier spring and buffer and it finally ran fine now. And by doing so I can almost do single fire with it last I tried. So that's kinda cool to have that ability without the aftermarket expensive/rare selectors. My next project will be the MCXs I have. Dam ammo costs have put a cramp on my style tho as far as tinkering lol, especiallyfor 300 AAC. But it's a fun hobby. Thanks for the info bud
That oven cleaners working on you…
Vented 6" buff @ 3-4k rpm bench grinder and stick of tripolee bar Rouge don't forget ur gloves that shit gets hot. Enough pressure should take care of the internal corners u mentioned.
Screw hand polishing
Thanks for the help.
I'm having problems with my binary not resetting. I think it's that little spring not having enough power. How can I fix